Plymouth August 24th 1779
If you had been with me to night we should have walked together on the
Cliffs and mutually delighted in the Moon which illuminated them. The
Sky was serene and I lay peaceably beneath its expanse on a smooth Down
sloping towards the Sea.
There were but few Ships in the Port, a circumstance which to say truth
I rejoiced in. Except a small fishing Boat that danced on the Waves immediately
below me, no vessel interrupted the solitude of the Ocean. I was all attention
to the murmur of the Tide flowing over the base of the Precipices and
listened to the hum of distant Voices.
At intervals a strange melancholy Tune which came from the Boat passed
with the Winds by my Ear.
The Turf was so full of Herbs and Fragrance that I could willingly have
reposed the whole Night upon its Bosom and should have seen wondrous things
Dreaming by Night under the open Sky; but so many recollections
of Achs and Rheumatisms poured in upon me that I arose not without reluctance
and wished myself in some Country remote from Europe with the Worshippers
of the Moon How I lamented how often I lamented that you
or some such Lunatic was not leaning on a Rock by my side, enjoying the
Moonshine that rested on the Hills, on the Woods of Mount Edgecumbe on
the Waters beneath.
Never can I behold a lovelier Scene It reminds me of former Moonlights.
Just such a sky and such a Moon hung over the Groves of Evian where my
Hours glided so smoothly along. It was on an Evening like this that I
crossed the Lake from Vevay and coasted the Shores of Savoy filled with
a succession of ever  new and ever Youthful Ideas. Can I forget the
sensations I experienced when the Sun sinking behind the Jura tinged the
Rock of Meillerie and all the Labyrinth of Woods and hanging Meadows above
with his softest and most affecting Rays? now the ensueing Twilight
during which the sad Scenes of the Heloise glowing with Rousseaus
impassioned eloquence passed in succession before me? Shall I live and
not remember that moment when the Thickets above the Castle of Blonay
began to glimmer and the Moon rising cast her serene light on the most
interesting of countenances absorbed in the contemplation of that
blest vision, twas then I tasted happiness & gave myself freely up
to the enjoyment of the Scene expressing every Idea, however wild and
singular, which it suggested with an unbounded Confidence. My supreme
pleasure is now to recollect those departed hours, & to dwell on the
minutest circumstance connected with them My Imagination delights
in haunting the woody hills and Vallies which lie concealed and sheltered
at the feet of the Alps. There every Night do I seem to wander
the instant my eyes are closed and fancy I hear the same Springs which
were used to lull me and think myself listening to that voice, whose thrilling
accents sunk with such pleasing pain such melancholy tenderness
into the inmost recesses of my existence.
And even when light begins to dawn I seem listening to former Songs and
past conversations are repeated, nay even the Forms of those I so tenderly
loved appear faintly around me and stretching out my hands towards them
I often awake in Tears. What would I not give to transport them hither
or rather to transport myself to them; for at this Period or indeed at
any period England is not the Island they would admire. Few that I have
met with in this phlegmatic  Region comprehend the wild & strange
delight arising from new and singular Situations. To strike boldly into
any untrodden path is in this Country, a mighty Trespass and every thing
like Originality either in Taste or Conversation is always thrown, by
the English World into the Tub of Whimsies a most contemptible Situation
in their Eyes, of course an eligible one in mine. Probably we have been
both sent there before now, and it is best to be reconciled to ones Fate.
To morrow I expect Mount Edgecumbe and the Ocean to appear in great Splendor;
for the Sunset was cloudless and the brightness of the Moon promises a
I am quite impatient to walk on the Promontories and cast an eager Look
over the Plains of Sea. But it grows late my Eyes are overpowered with
Sleep and I am sinking apace into the Bosom of Delusions.
des Nuits la noire Deité
Du haut dun Char dEbene marqueté
Repand sur nous les Pavots et les Songes
Et nous endort dans le Sein des Mensonges
August 25th 1779
It is a lovely Morning and the Sun smiles upon the Sea.
I long to be out of this noisy Town whose Inhabitants are all in Confusion,
filled with alarms and suspicions staring about with rusty guns in one
hand and Telescopes in the other.
Well wish me joy the Carriage is at the Door and I shall soon take refuge
in the Groves of Mount Edgecumbe. : : :
 After passing Streets, Lanes and Alleys all equally dirty and disagreeable
we arrived, thro Clouds of Dust, at the Dock which like other
Docks was crowded with buzy Faces. From hence we made the best
of our way to the Ferry where a Boat waited to carry us over an arm
of the Sea which separates Plymouth and all its impertinences from the
more tranquil Shores of Mount Edgecumbe.
My Spirits grew lighter when I found myself on the Waves and I need
not say twas without regret that I left the Dust, the Mob and
the Politicians behind me. In about a quarter of an Hour we were
landed beneath an ascent covered with tall Trees under which we proceeded,
mounting higher and higher till we reached an irregular Glade; delightfully
green, shaded by Spanish Chestnuts and fanned by breezes which played
amongst their foliage. Here I rested beneath a weeping Willow
for several moments, admiring the variety of Ground which appeared on
all sides and catching, the Groves moving with the Wind, glimpses of
blue Sea between their Branches. After this short repose we looked up
several Terraces to the House whose Porches, Turrets and Battlements
were thrown into an agreeable Confusion and reminded me at the first
glance, of those airy Palaces and Castles which Spencer so often discribes.
However we did not recoinoitre this Edifice which pleased me so much
at a Distance; but kept aloof and heard a Voice singing in one of the
Towers, as we passed the Slopes beneath.
The Sun was powerful and we gladly ascended a Terrace of the finest
Turf shaded by a Row of Oaks and commanding an uninterrupted prospect
of the Dock, the Citadel and Port Building above Building and
a rising  Country striped with white Walls and dotted with the Tents
of an Encampment beyond.
This was not exactly the View I coveted and I turned from it with pleasure
to contemplate the woods and verdure which encircled me.
Their Charms were enhanced by Contrast and it was with peculiar Satisfaction
I plunged into a deep impenetrable Grove of Beech Chesnuts and Acacias
hanging wildly on the Brow of the Mountain, Sea below and green pasture
above fed by Deer.
A winding Path led us thro the Grove to some retired mossy Seats
on all which severally we reposed and enjoyed the fragrance of the Woods
and heard the Waves yet unseen, murmuring beneath. From these
Seats our Path brought us to other shady Declivities where we wandered
till a spring we perceived issuing from beneath a rugged Cove inclined
us to halt by its margin. ::
The perfume of the Flowers that sprang wildly from every crevice in
the Rocks and the soft Sea Air breathed such Inspiration that I persuaded
myself I was no longer in England. The  more I advanced along the
Mountainside, the more every Object conspired to favour this Idea.
Emerging from the Woods I found myself on a vast Lawn suspended above
the Ocean, which I crossed swiftly to enter other thickets composed
of Beeches and Walnuts. To these succeeded a truly Sicilian Vegetation,
of Laurel and Arbutus cloathing the romantic Steeps of the Mountain
with the utmost Luxuriance. Here and there large Rocks peeped from amongst
the bright greens of the Shrubbery, some rough and exposed, others covered
with a blooming variety of Heaths. : Behind these masses
and high above the Paths several Pines and Cypresses spired up into
the Sky and waved with the breezes.
When gazing at the vast expanse of Ocean, to all appearance surrounding
this enchanted Spot I could not help imagining myself suddenly conveyed
to some fortunate Island and when I looked up to the Pines and Cypresses
waving on the Cliffs I believed this divine Abode inhabited by
no less a Personage than Calypso herself whose Grotto I was every Instant
in expectation of discovering. Surely said I to myself there are the
promontories where she used to walk disconsolately with Eyes fixed on
the Ocean and under that Ilex she has often wept the departure of Ulysses.
Having indulged for a while these fancies and blessed the Prospects
which revived some of Homers descriptions in my mind I prepared
to explore the mazes of the Thickets fringing the Steeps, above, below
and on every Side. Descending some Steps shaped rudely in the Rock I
came to another Labyrinth hanging directly above the Shore over which
the intermingled branches of the Pine and Arbutus cast a refreshing
 Spots of the smoothest Turf often occurred in these cool Alleys
where I sat down amidst Plants and Flowers. All vegetation thrives in
these Recesses cherished by a happy exposure and screened from the Northern
Winds by Woods rising one above the other, terminated by pointed Rocks
and Pines that flourish on their very extremities.
After passing many moments in the pleasing gloom of these retirements
I ascended another series of rugged steps, oerhung by arching Shrubs,
which brought me suddenly to the edge of a Precipice from which I started
back dazzled by the Sun beaming in full Splendor on the Ocean. A deep
recess in the Cliffs presented itself as I turned from the glittering
Sea where I retired and cast myself on a little Ledge of Rock defended
from the Sun by clusters of Ivy. There I caught every gale that blew
and whilst carelessly reclined in the Shade contemplated the shining
Plains and bright sky that lay stretched out in full prospect before
It was Mid-day and the Winds fell the surrounding Woods grew
still, the Cypresses no longer waved on the Rocks and the Ocean calming
by degrees assumed such transparent cærulean Colours as Words
cannot describe. No Sail appeared on the Horizon, and from my Recess
no point of Land was visible. My Eyes lifted upwards roved in the blue
Æether cast down they wandered without interruption over
an expanse of azure Sea.
To the right of my rustic Couch a huge Rock projected into the Waves
with a Path stealing along its Summit that Polypheme would have chosen
for his airy walk. You know how he loved situations which commanded
Galateas Element and Pinnacles high above  the waves where
he might waste whole Hours in fond Complaints and vain Invitations.
I too should have soothed myself somewhat in a similar manner with Poetry
and Song, but I feared to raise my Voice. Theocritus has taught me to
venerate the mighty Pan who always slumbers at Noon and I knew not how
near the Thicket might be which concealed him. Fearing then to
intrude upon this Sacred repose I quitted my retreat and paced in silence
along a narrow track amongst the Shrubs. This Track led me after mounting
and descending in a very irregular manner to a round of Turf inclosed
by the Cypress & the Ilex. The whole Air I breathed in this
spot impregnated with the perfume of Myrtles convinced me it was the
beloved haunt of a Deity: Nor was I surprized at discovering amongst
these elegant plants an Altar inscribed to the Sea-born Venus. How happily
could I have passed my Hours within this Circle of Cypresses had you
or some one of those, with whom I lived on the banks of the Lake, been
present. How would that Friend I have so frequently described
to you have felt the elegance of this simple and sequestered Scene!
Not one of its beauties would have passed unregarded. To Day no one
was near to notice them or collect the Myrtle Blossoms which whitened
the Ground. Their delicate Fragrance was lavished upon me alone and
I had no more a Companion capable of lingering with me in these Paths
till the close of Day. These Solitudes this soft Light let in
thro the Woods which surround them, the noise of the distant Surges
all reminded me of delightful moments passed in similar situations.
Every Leaf that  stirred, every Insect that buzzed in the Air affected
me. The glimpses I caught of the Sea beneath the Shades, that
vast expanse which separated me from the Companions of my happiest Hours
filled me with melancholy Sensations and the sad Idea of having perhaps
beheld the fair Forms for the last time haunted me whilst I leaned on
the Altar. Should I even in some future period again behold them how
may they be changed! The Scenes from which we caught our purest
pleasures remain unalterable whilst we experience a thousand Vicissitudes.
Every Spring restores to them their Blossoms and their Foliage; but
the bloom of youthful Ideas passes swiftly away alas too swiftly;
for it passes never to return. ::
Reluctantly quitting the Altar and ascending the Steeps I soon left
the pendent Woods and Shrubberies below me and found myself amongst
Pines on the loftiest Region of the Mount, where I paused an instant
to cast still one more look on the azure Sea. Then moving forwards I
reached a green plain on the brow of these Eminences where I accosted
several Herds of Deer that as you may suppose returned no answer, but
running wildly over the Lawn left me in entire Solitude.
A little path led across the Plain which I pursued and attained but
too speedily the Boundary of these affecting Scenes.:::
York September 27th 1779 8 oClock Eve
There was no object I reckoned more upon seeing during the whole Course
of my Journey than the Cathedral of York. The moment I entered I was
seized with admiration scarcely knowing which way to turn myself. Lost
in the immensity and variety of the Structure, I remained several moments
motionless at the grand Entrance of the Cross aile gazing at the long
perspectives of clustered Columns rising on every side, the rich Windows
between and the vast expansion of the Arches above.
The Evening was drawing on and the Sun gleaming thro the western
Windows cast the Shadows of their Paintings on the Pavement beneath.
Innumerable reds and purples in the liveliest tints shone all around
Recovering by degrees from my first surprize I advanced slowly towards
the Center of the Edifice and pausing under the great Tower began to
notice the beautiful Design and Symmetry of the whole. Twas in vain
however to examine every Nitch, every Tabernacle, every slender pillar
or canopy of elaborate carved work and I was soon bewildered in the
attempt; but the more I looked the more I discovered and the more I
was astonished. Whilst I was contemplating the Nave and admiring its
magnificent Arches, the Service began and soon the  Organ breathed
such lofty and solemn Airs as lifted me above myself and banished all
worldly thoughts from my Mind. Never was I more solemnly affected than
upon this Occasion; but I should tell you I was not in the Choir
I saw no singing Men and had a right to imagine (and I beg you you will
not doubt) that the Sounds proceeded from some Sanctuary beyond the
groups of Pillars, some holy place into which it was not lawful to penetrate.
Half an Hour passed away I believe whilst I leaned against one of the
great Columns which support the Tower, absorbed in a train of legendary
Ideas and quite transported by the Harmony which filled the Place to
those Regions inhabited by the Saints whose Images appeared glowing
between every Arch and terminating every Aile. :::
The Music ended and the Voices died away amongst the Arches before I
left my Column to enter the Choir, which was now deserted. No one remained
but a Verger who after repeating his daily Histories of Monuments and
Epitaphs quitted me conduct some other more attentive Personage. ::
I was now alone in the Choir and ascending several flights of Steps
examined the Screen above the Altar which consists of eight Arches enriched
with delicate Sculpture and adorned with pinnacles of the lightest Workmanship.
The openings are now glazed with plate glass and admit a partial prospect
of one of the noblest Windows in the Universe rising nearly from the
base to the very summit of the Edifice, filled up with exquisite Tracery
and displaying the most vivid Paintings. Not content with viewing them
 thro the medium of the glass I descended the Steps and leaving
the Choir walked along an Isle rich with fret work and imagery to the
eastern extremity of the Building, where this great Window appears in
full majesty and again fixed my attention.
But what suggested a finer idea of Vision and Miracle than anything
I ever beheld was (upon my turning round) its reflection on the glazed
work of the Screen which as I advanced all the way communicating my
own motion, spread wider and wider and rose every step I took till the
whole in all its varied Hues and splendid Colouring hung suspended in
the Air. ::
This apparition held me in astonishment till the Sun disappeared and
the Twilight increasing it faded away. I now retreated, and moving slowly
along reached my old station beneath the Tower. Happily no People were
passing thro the Ailes, the stilness, the Solitude of the vast
space around me was uninterrupted except by the warblings of a few Red-Breasts
in the Cloisters and hanging Galleries high above the Arcades.
A solemn Evening Light admitted thro the mosaic of the Windows
was spread over the Tower under which I stood whilst the extremities
of the Ailes and recesses of the Cloisters were already in deep Shade.
Twas impossible in such a Situation not to be affected with the most
religious Sensations. For my own part I was filled with Awe and looked
up to the Range of Cloisters dimly seen above the Arches with peculiar
Veneration. There was some thing so strange and mysterious in
these Galleries that I almost imagined the holy Spirits of the Founders
of the  Pile still loved to linger in their Recesses. Impressed
with this Idea I remained a long while beneath the Tower wishing every
Instant some Form might look over the Parapet of the Galleries or some
Voice be heard calling to me from their Shades. But alas I received
no admonitions no intelligence was imparted to me from that dark
Country to which so many great and venerable Fathers are retired. All
was gloom and Silence and they reigned profoundly throughout the whole
Structure. Awed by the solemnity of the Scene, under some sense
of unworthiness I retired from the consecrated Walls and casting one
more Look on the Tombs of their revered Founders left them to sleep
in peace. September 29th 1779
We left York on a sunny Evening and I was sorry when the Towers of its
Cathedral began to lessen on my sight.
It was late before we reached Rippon and the next Morning I rode eight
Miles thro common Lanes and every day inclosures to Hackfall, a deep
rocky Valley rapt up in Groves and Thickets. I heard the trickling of
Rills in the Woodlands before I entered their Shade and listened with
pleasure to the distant Song of the Birds which inhabit them. The Solitary
Air and unexpected wildness of the Prospect inspired a sentiment of
serenity and freedom which I did not find lessened on descending amongst
Steeps and Copses that looked quite detached from the World. A Rivulet
flows rapidly down these Declivities and covering every Rock, or mossy
Root which opposes its passage with the clearest Waters forms a succession
of romantic Falls which glimmer amongst impending Groves and Fragments.
A Path is conducted on the edge of the Stream and follows all its Descents
and Windings till it opens to a Glen with a Seat where I rested, soothed
with the tranquility of this Sylvan Region. It was a mild autumnal
Day and the Sun cast a gleam on the Woods lighting up their Foliage
and gilding the Springs that ran murmuring beneath. Before me rose a
lofty Rock almost concealed by a thick Vegetation of bushy Oaks and
Hazels from under whose Stems a transparent Stream issued and hurrying
along a ledge intirely mossed over cast itself from the Steep into the
Rivulet below. Beds of Moss carpet the edge of the Waters softer
and more delicious than any I think ever rivulet enjoyed. I need not
tell you that I reposed upon them, poring over the Brook according to
my old Custom and prying into the Copse where it lost itself in depths
and hollows and gurgled unseen. These are truly Haunts for rural Powers
Springs and Fountains over which the Naids need not blush to
I could have passed the whole Day in this Glen, slumbering by the bubbling
Waters and harkening to the whispers of an ancient Oak, whose appearance
was perfectly oracular; but a Desire of exploring what lay beyond amongst
the Woods, urged me forwards. After roving a while thro
the thickets which skirt the extremity of the Glen, I came to a second
opening surrounded by hanging Woods and Cliffs with Ruins on their craggy
Summits, a River rolling beneath, precipices on every Side and Streams
precipitating themselves from their Declivities.
A Rude Temple rises in this central point where the murmur of the Woods
and Waters is heard in perfection.
This must have been the Throne of Melancholy, the wild sequestered
Seat where she sat retired as Collins found her. From hence 
a shady Alley led me to another Glade of Greenswerd, tall Oaks and Ashes
rising irregularly from the Turf between whose Branches other distant
Wilds and Steeps were discovered. In Front a vast Theatre of Woods crowned
by ruined Arches and the remains of an aweful Temple just such as Gasper
delighted in painting. to the left a venerable Cell, mantled
with Ivy, probably the abode of an Anchoret who often meditates on the
mossy Stones scattered thro this Glade. I suppose he shunned me
and sought the Depths of the Thickets. Unwilling to intrude upon his
Concealments I clambered up a rugged Eminence amongst clusters of Fern
and having attained its Summit walked along this wild Terrace which
overlooks all the mazes of the Woods and the windings of the River till
I came to a Spot darkly shaded by Oaks overgrown with Ivy and Misletoe,
strewed with dry leaves and so strangely hemmed in by mis-shapen Roots
that I could not help thinking I was entering the Domain of a Wizard.
The Rustling of my footsteps amongst decayed leaves disturbed the devotions
of a solemn Owl (perhaps the Wizard himself) who sat moping in the hollow
of an Oak. ::
He opened a very suspicious Eye upon my approach and sailing away over
the Vale beneath hid himself in the distant Solitudes. I pursued my
Rout without meeting with any further indications of Sorcery and reaching
the extremity of the Groves got into the Carriage which waited there
and was driven to Studley Park.
ADDENDA TO THE ENGLISH TOUR
A dark solemn Hall of a strange mysterious architecture. the
sages & magi around the Monarch. Daniel kneeling his
whole figure illuminated by the glow of an immense opal or carbuncle
which forms the chief ornament of the throne. The Sages pale
with wonder. the Monarch in dreadful suspense nothing can be imagined
so sacred & apalling as the Light the whole proceeding from
the gem. the velvets & draperys the carpet all tinged with
this mystic radiance
Picture by Rembrandt at Keddleston
At length I am arrived within sight of the Mountains: Canals, flat country,
manufacturing Towns &c &c are left behind & I shall soon
breathe a purer air amongst Lakes & wildernesses. My expectations
are not very warm. I shall see no Glacieres, no Carthusian deserts,
no cataracts like those of the Valorsine. but I think I may reasonably
look for arid Landscapes & rocky Scenery, the miniatures of these
I have been acostomed to behold. If these Prospects
do but in the least remind me of those in Savoy, I shall be fully satisfied
with my journey & readily chime in with all the glorious descriptions
Messrs West & Hutchinson have so minutely given of these till then
unknown Lakes & neglected Mountains.
a dreary Mountains side specled with withering fern & blasted
yews All down the Steeps appeared trunks of decayed trees
of the strangest shapes imaginable whose appearance this misty
& showery weather was almost formidable they seemed to me
like Spectres, frowning upon the pass below. Under one of the
Yews lay three black Heifers that looked portentous & odd
as if they belonged to somebody I fear to name
Upon the shore under swelling Mountains & wrapped
up in the thickest Wood lies Koniston Hall a ruinated place as my Driver
told me & inhabited by a very antient Man.
a wildness a variety of irregular forms here sweet copses stealing
along the shore, there savage rocky cliffs of a brown uncommon
hue that look as if they produced potent herbs such as one might reap
by moonlight with a brazen sicle.
Whilst I stand & write waters bubble around me & I scent
the furze in blossom Forth from a shady creek sails an odd indian
looking bark the only one visible on the Lake - & I almost
imagine it will cast anchor to night before some Wigwam in these wildernesses.
 Crossed Poley Bridge. cast a glance on the Lake as I passed over
it & came immediatly under the woody Hill of Dunmallert, devided
by an avenue bordered by Pines & fir trees whose dark colouring
appeared to advantage backed by the lighter greens of Beech & Hazel.
This avenue led quite to the summit of the Hill & the Sun breaking
forth lighted up the Lake & cast the warmest tints on a plain
between several round & beautifully swelling Hills
green paths stealing amongst Beds of Fern which autumn had already tinged
with a glowing brown. beyond[?] Mountains of the deepest blue closed
I remained at least half  an hour on the brow of the Hill basking
in the Sun the greens of the Landscape growing more & more
vivid & the Lake bluer & bluer every instant. On the
gentle slope of the Mountains are spread out many inclosures framed
in by little copses & woods of the deepest verdure - & low points
advancing into the Lake fringed with trees to their very extremities
Descending between[?] the steep I hung a few minutes quite over the
Lake & began the more I gazed to distinguish little rural cots &
comfortable Farm Houses some quite on its margin, others higher on the
Hills & embosomed in wood. Here & there broad tracts
of pasture intervened dotted by sheep.
A long grassy walk & many young light elegant trees hanging over
 the water, where I walked joyously along boughs trembling
above my head & the Lake glittering & murmuring below.
From hence turned into another shady alley & looked up amongst light
spreading trees quite to the summit where I had enjoyed such pleasant
This brought me soon to the foot of the great avenue, where I lay down
on some mossy roots & had it been night should probably have seen
something more than boughs glancing across it.
From hence I returned in the Evening Sun to a Cottage almost opposite
& fed upon Honey butter & delicious Bread.
The clear Torrent streams rapidly down a declivity foaming over many
rocks on each side rising ground, overspread with copse wood
branching oaks impending above the floods & large cluster
of fern springing from every cleft in the rocks.
The Reeds, & many aquatic plants on the brink of the stream, together
with the variety of shrubs & mosses above on the crags exibit rich
groups of vegetation.
To the right strange roofs & black wheels casting around them a
perpetual rain The hollow wind in the woods mixed with the rushing
of waters, whilst the forges thundred in my ear. To the left
a black quaking Bridge leading to other Wilds. Within a glowing
furnace machines hammering huge bars of redhot iron, which at intervals
cast a bright light & innumerable sparks thro the gloom. Several
boughs fixed on a beam above, shook & trembled with the strokes.
I never see such Rocks but like the cornish Miners I wish to burrough
in them & make unto myself a den.
I should love to lead a wild & savage Life in these primæval
Regions & fish for Sustenance. Mr L too, exclaimed I should
like to lead a Life of three Moons amongst the Lakes.
Mr L has much sagacity in finding out chapels & Churches
he pointed at several I s.d never have discovered or thought of so snugly
were they mantled in Wood or hid by eminences.
The head of the Lake ravished us beyond expression loosing itself
in green meads & flowery pastures rising one above the other till
they toutch the base of rugged rocky mountains.
These are Scenes truly arcadian The white Cottages peeping here &
there from amongst oaks & Hollies added not a little to the Landscape.
Close to almost every one, a spring tricled along conducted from
the rock by a trough to supply little natural basons scooped out of
the living rock. on the edge of which I noticed several bright
jugs of earthern ware that reminded me of patriarchal times & made
me venerate these fountains.